The Hawaii Traveler

I was recently discussing accommodations in Hawai’i, and we both decided that if you’re from the school that says there are no bad accommodations, only bad bank accounts, you’ll agree: Whether you’re in a beach front mansion or camping out, you’re still in Hawai’i. As the kids say, it’s all good. This is especially true if you’re lucky enough to bag a night or six on Ka’anapali Beach, the queen mother of Maui beaches.

Ka’anapali has been crowned America’s Best Beach, and I’m in full agreement. It’s not so crowded that a couple can’t share a romantic moment alone, and not so isolated that swimming is a dangerous proposition. It’s where old school meets new school, where the old Whaler condominiums live in harmony down the way from the newer Westin Resort and Spa. There’s a concrete sidewalk for strolling that runs almost the entire three-mile stretch from the Sheraton (Black Rock) to the Hyatt (Canoe Beach), and it’s a spectacular place to be at sunset.

It’s not hard here, on one of Maui’s most renowned and relished beachfronts, to get along. In fact, the aloha spirit is everywhere: There’s music in the air, dinner cruises plying the waters, kayaks and outriggers riding the surf, shopping kiosks along the path, delicious restaurants, couples holding hands, and, if you’re lucky, whales breaching within eyeshot.

If Whaler’s Village is the place to shop, Black Rock is the place to snorkel. That’s where I heard whales singing when I dove down to get a gander at some urchins at the bottom. The north end of the beach in general is a lovely stretch of sand and clear water that is especially kid-friendly.

Yes, it’s on the commercial side, and it’s not advised to leave your stuff unattended while you swim. It is patrolled by lifeguards, but not well, and it’s a good idea to heed the signs and warnings at high surf. (I’ve seen a few comical and not-so-comical tourist poundings there.) It’s also where the groceries stores will put the hurt on you, so it’s a good idea to grab your milk before or after entering West Maui.

Also, one other warning: Hawai’ians believed that Black Rock was the jumping off point for spirits joining their ancestors. Those who got lost on the way remained along the lava as ghosts, causing mischief and making trouble. So if you go, take your pictures home, but not the rocks. Your fellow plane travelers will say mahalo for it.

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