The Hawaii Traveler

You’ve no doubt seen bumper stickers and other materials with some version of the line art figure above. Called “honu” by Hawaiians and the Hawaii-friendly, it’s a representation of the green sea turtle, an endangered species you’re bound to see while snorkeling in Kaua’i.

Hawaii is the Endangered Species Capital of the World. With 100s of plants and animals listed as Endangered or Threatened, there are more endangered species per square mile on these islands than any other place on the planet. Arguably one of the best places to glimpse one of these endangered creatures is at Tunnels beach, on the North Shore of Kaua’i, where the honu swim freely and relatively happily.

There you’ll see turtles ranging in size from petite to as big as your car door. (The grandfather turtles.) While the grandfathers can look intimidating up close, I assure you, they will do you no harm, and are better swimmers than you’ll ever be. If you decide to visit a turtle, swim above or next to it, where its belly is less vulnerable. Don’t ever touch, disturb, or harass a turtle. The state imposes heavy fines for even the slightest physical interaction with a turtle, not to mention that it’s unkind to distress any animal, endangered or common.

As an aside, turtles in Hawai’i and elsewhere often suffer from the disease fibropapillomatosis, a virus-like invasion that causes fibrous tumors and warts, and ultimately does the poor turtle in.  For more information on this and other turtle facts, visit Turtles.org.

If you’re lucky, you’ll find a whole trip’s worth of turtle sightings at Tunnels Beach in just one morning. Watch out for the coral, especially if you’re snorkeling or swimming in rough waters. Tunnels is also a spectacular place to dive, walk, and watch the sun set.

To get there: Take Highway 560 east from Hanalei toward Ha’ena. Two short dirt roads, just past Mile Marker #8, lead to the parking area for the beach.  (Not only will you spot turtles, here, you may sight a celebrity. I once saw Glenn Frey of Eagles pretending to direct traffic here.) Parking is very limited, so prepare yourself for a hike from your car to the water.

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